Cityslicking Yazd & Esfehan (English)

Our guidebook, the Lonely Planet (LP), claims that a brief tour across Iran should be completed with - at least - a visit to both Jazd and Esfehan. We can contend that. Both cities have the atmosphere of just-not-nearly-mass-tourism. Iran is not everyone's topchoice of traveller's destination. The land is presumably hard to access and difficult to grasp.

A few days in Iran prove this wrong. Iran is a highly accessible country with a considerable living standard (especially in its cities). However - in contrast to our experiences in China and Pakistan - the country is not very prickling. Having sensed the momentuous transition that China undertakes and the tumultuous dynamics of Pakistan you would nearly think that Iran is boring. Nothing much to do. And good news for the organized tourist: Iran is flooded wth tourguides, specialized chauffeurs and the like; and they all love tourists! In fact, we came across one guide who has his love for tourists declared in his emailalias: just mail ilovetourists@yahoo.com and you'll have yourself a friend for life in Persia (and oh yes, he's in page 271 of the Iran Lonely Planet.. ..every tourguide introduces himself with his emailalias and their reference in the LP..).

Well, adventure is there were you make it, but it's perhaps explained by the influence of its holding authorities that endeavors the current status-quo, rather than pushing for changes. Nothng wrong with that really, but like Japan has been through innovating technology for the next twenty- or thirty years or so, Iran has finished innovating on its institutions for the next two or three decades or so. It's just a feeling, but drop by Iran any time in your lifetime and you won't experience too much of a difference with the current conditions.

In that effect, Jazd is a great sandy desert city that makes you scavage through narrow streets - like the ones we saw in Kashgar, West-China - and enjoy the intimate courtyards whilst ushering your dolmee (an aubergine/stuffed green pepper/minced lamb dish), Beryani or chai (tea).

Iranian chai is served without spoon. Its Iranan custom to dip your sugarcane in the hot teacup, then puttng the sugar in your mouth and sip the tea while the sugar is melting on your tongue. Numbness of taste buds guaranteed.

Esfehan is one of Iran's most lavished cities. Tucked away in a valley with the rver Zayandey intersecting, it's famous for its unique two-storey high bridges. Like Yazd, Esfehan is great to be explored by foot. Via dwindling alleys of the bazaar you find yourself at the Imam square. Imam square is like the Louvre but without the alcohol serving terasses, but with the mosque.. ..not really - but it gives you an idea about the loominess state of tourist-boutique-gazing you can endeavor here.

After being toured by a frantic semi-Iranian (a feller called "Ham'd") to the Armenian section of town (the most relaxed part in terms of tolerated liberal behaviour - whatever that means) we wanted to discover the great outdoors again. In the end of the day, Lisanne and I are countrysidekickers - loving space and nature. So soon enough we stacked our bikes wth our bags and head for the North-West: going for the Iran-Turkish border..