Aprés Bikiing in Iran (English)
Door: Mike
Blijf op de hoogte en volg Mike&Lisanne
13 April 2009 | Iran, Hamadān
After close examining the North-Western part of Iran we escaped the big highways. Granted, the highways in Iran are in excellent shape and are ideal to make your miles, but we wanted to spend our final four days in Iran closer to the rural communities, somewhat away from (mass)tourism. Instead of takng the highway for Kashan and Qom, we headed for the city of Hamadan taking secondary routes. Hamadan is Iran's, or Persia's oldest cty alive. The city is located in between fertile green wetlands and high white mountan peaks. We should make it easily within a day's travel; however weatherconditions would prove us wrong.
In contrast to travelling by car, with a motorbike you're subject to all weatherconditions at hand. Moreover, you can't just stop the bike and let the other take over the steering wheel; no, you're in full control.. ..and in full exposure to time and the elements.
After some 100 km's outside Esfehan our first mountans topped with snow welcomed us. Views were majestc, little dd we know that the snow would not abandon us for over a week..
After a good day of biking in the cold and occassional showers of rain we arrived n local Borujerd. As we travelled outside of LP-territory (Lonely Planet) we had to settle for the business-style four-star hotel Zagros. After we bargained the price down (a favorite for the authentic Dutchman) we found ourselves on the outskirts of Borujerd on the side of the cornering mountain overlooking the little town.
I wish there was more to say, but we both were making the miles that day. We felt exhausted and happy to have found a dry place - albeit not in Hamadan.
Bikeriding in cold, winter conditions leave you wth nearly the same feeling as wth skiing; in the morning you rise early to have breakfast, get your butt to the slopes and work yourself all-day long downhill. After a full-day on the piste you'll have a healthy red, invigorated face and a content body. In contrast, we faced ourselves not in suitable skiing clothing and had no beer available to us to enjoy a good aprés-bike.
Next day we ventured out to Hamadan. Climate conditions were nearing 3 degrees celsius with a strong wind. Fortunately we checked the historical weatherconditions of our itenary at hand when we prepared the trip in Rosmalen and came prepared.. ..well not really.
The last five to six years the temperature in this area of Iran beginning April reaches the 20 degrees easily. Now, this year is different. Like there was no rain in Bam for the last five years, 2009 was rich with draughty weather. North-West Iran was freezing. Consequently to our preparation our motoroutfit was stripped from winter-atire and we lacked winter-gloves. Altogether, we were in for a lovely winter tour through Iran.
When we arrived in Hamedan we arrived with a big darkblue raincloud. To stall time while icecold rain was pouring over ancient Hamedan we exchanged money, had a kofta/hamburger and inquired with the local police for the best roads to travel. The police reported heavy snowfall in Zanjian and Tehran (the Hghway Route)..
..the outer Western route was presumably bad. But looking at the weatherwebsites at the Melli Bank (a service rendered by the moneyexchangers of the bank to stranded foreign bikeriders) the Western route seemed to be least detested by clouds and rain.
Snow and cold were certain in Zanjian and further. We took the chance for the Western route via Sanandaj. We took a chance for our first encounter with Kurdistan.
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